Machu Picchu travel guide: everything you need to know!…

07/11/2024

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Wednesday newsletters always feature a hotel, flight or destination review.

Today: Machu Picchu travel guide – everything you need to know!

Embedded within a dramatic landscape at the meeting point between the Peruvian Andes and the Amazon Basin, the Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu is among the greatest artistic, architectural and land use achievements anywhere and the most significant tangible legacy of the Inca civilization. Recognized for outstanding cultural and natural values, the UNESCO World Heritage property covers 32,592 hectares of mountain slopes, peaks and valleys surrounding its heart, the spectacular archaeological monument of “La Ciudadela” (the Citadel) at more than 2,400 m (7,874 ft) above sea level. Built in the fifteenth century Machu Picchu was abandoned when the Inca Empire was conquered by the Spaniards in the sixteenth century. It was not until 1911 that the archaeological complex was made known to the outside world. No matter how many times you have seen a photograph of the iconic Inca ruins, nothing prepares you for sense of awe that this magical place elicits in its Andes mountain setting, clinging as it does to rock and jungle.

Machu Picchu features in my top 10 list of the most fabulous archaeological sites in the world.

Have you ever visited Machu Picchu? If so, what was your experience? Leave a comment.

In this review (more info and photos below my YouTube clip & slideshow):

Table of Contents

MACHU PICCHU: HISTORY

Machu Picchu was built during the height of the Inca Empire in the 15th century. The exact purpose of the citadel is still debated among historians and archaeologists, but most believe that Machu Picchu was used as a royal estate for the Inca emperor Pachacutec, most likely after a successful military campaign. During its use as a royal retreat, it is estimated that about 750 people lived there, who served various functions, including agricultural work, construction, religious activities, and supporting the needs of the ruling elite. Historical research published in 2022 claims that the site was probably called Huayna Picchu by the Inca people themselves

Machu Picchu was only used for 80 years before being abandoned, probably because of the Spanish conquests in other parts of the Inca Empire. It is also possible that most of its inhabitants died from smallpox introduced by travelers before the Spanish conquistadors even arrived in the area. Over the following centuries, the surrounding jungle overgrew the citadel, and few outside the immediate area knew of its existence.

Agustín Lizárraga, a Peruvian citizen from Cusco, is widely recognized as the official discoverer of the archaeological site of Machu Picchu. He is known to have found the remains of the site in 1902, but was unable to reveal them due to lack of backing from the Provisional Government. Nine years later, on July 24th, 1911, Hiram Bingham, an American history professor, arrived at Machu Picchu in search of the lost Inca city of Vilcabamba. Bingham was accompanied by landowner Melchor Arteaga and Sergeant Carrasco of the Peruvian National Guard. Following his expedition, Bingham publicized the existence of the Inca citadel which brought Machu Picchu to international attention.

MACHU PICCHU: GETTING THERE BY TRAIN + BUS

The easiest way to get to Machu Picchu is to take the train from either Cusco (three and a half hours one way) or Ollantaytambo (90 minutes one way) to the village of Aguas Calientes, at the bottom of the Machu Picchu mountain. The train ride is a scenic journey along the Urubamba River in the Sacred Valley with dramatic mountain views on either side. However, note that the so-called Cusco train station is actually in the nearby village of Poroy. It’s a cheap taxi ride to get from Cusco to Poroy, but allow yourself at least an hour to get from the city center of Cusco to Poroy as traffic and road work may cause unexpected delays.

There are three train companies to choose from: Inca Rail, Peru Rail, and the Belmond Hiram Bingham train. The Hiram Bingham service (managed by Belmond but also operated by Peru Rail) is one of the world’s grandest and most luxurious train journeys, with Pullman-style carriages fitted with antiques, fine dining and onboard entertainment from Peruvian musician. The Hiram Bingham train ride is much more expensive than Inca Rail or Peru Rail, both of which offer comfortable passage on different types of trains – including ones designed with panoramic windows for an additional fee. It is recommended to book train tickets as far in advance as possible as tickets sell out weeks ahead in some months.

From Aguas Calientes to the entrance to Machu Picchu it’s either a 40-minute bus ride up a winding road carved into the mountainsides, or an hour-long hike. Unless you’re feeling extremely fit, it’s best to take the bus, which can be prebooked online here.

MACHU PICCHU: GETTING THERE BY HIKE (INCA TRAIL)

The more adventurous (and epic) way to get from Cusco to Machu Picchu is to walk as part of an organized multiday Machu Picchu trek along the iconic Inca Trail, a section of one of the hundreds of Incan roads built as the empire expanded. The Inca Trail is one the bucket list of many travelers, not only for the sense of achievement but also because it immerses you in stunning Andean landscapes from cloud forest to rainforest and passes a handful of other Inca ruins. The 43 km (27 mi) hike begins in Chillca, just west of Ollantaytambo, and takes three to four days, camping every night. A maximum of 500 permits are issued for the Inca Trail each day, over half of which are taken up by guides, and the porters who lug baggage, as well as tents, food and even tables and benches, up some incredibly steep paths. Dozens of tour operators offer Inca Trail hikes to Machu Picchu (I highly recommend Evolutions Trek Peru), with varying durations and levels of comfort, including luxury camping trips. Note that the Inca Trail leading to Machu Picchu is closed for the entire month of February every year for maintenance and that the 500 daily permits can sell out months in advance, especially for the peak months of July and August.

MACHU PICCHU: BEST TIME OF THE YEAR TO VISIT (SEASON)

The best time to visit Machu Picchu is during the dry season, which runs from May to mid-October. During this time, the weather is sunny and dry, and you can enjoy clear skies, warm weather and beautiful views of the citadel and the surrounding Andes Mountains. The rainy season runs from mid-October to April. While the rain can make the landscape lush, green, and beautiful, it can also make hiking and exploring more difficult (with often obscured views at Machu Picchu). Landslides, disrupted train schedules, flight delays and road closures can also occur during rainy spells, which can disrupt your travel plans.

MACHU PICCHU: BEST TIME OF THE DAY TO VISIT

You can visit Machu Picchu between its opening time at 6 am and its closing time at 5:30 pm daily. For the best experience, try and visit either first thing in the morning or after 3 pm. By arriving right at 6 am, you’ll be able to watch Machu Picchu’s iconic sunrise (but keep in mind that the sun only rises above the mountains around 7 am) and beat the mid-morning and afternoon crowds. If you prefer more of a sleep in, after 3 pm is another great time: the majority of the crowds have already left, and depending on the time of year, you’ll get to watch the very much underrated sunset.

If you have time though, it’s worth visiting Machu Picchu both in the early morning and the late afternoon because of the different light conditions. IMHO, the conditions in the afternoon are better for capturing great photos, with softer and better lighting of the surrounding peaks.

MACHU PICCHU: BUYING TICKETS

Visitors need to book their Machu Picchu entry tickets online. The online sale of entrance tickets to Machu Picchu is done through the Peruvian State Platform for the Management of Visits to Cultural Centers developed by the Ministry of Culture and the Secretariat of Government and Digital Transformation of the Presidency of the Council of Ministers of Peru. You can access the website here and it is recommended to booking your tickets to Machu Picchu several months in advance since only 5,600 visitors per day are allowed access in high season.

Currently, the Machu Picchu entry ticket costs 152.00 soles ($42 USD) for adults and 70 soles ($20 USD) for children under 18 years of age.

Importantly, there are several types of tickets for Machu Picchu, and each one gives access to a speficic circuit. In 2021, in an effort to control overtourism, 5 circuits were established in order to visit the Machu Picchu. However, in June 2024, the Peruvian Ministry of Culture has modified these circuits and 3 new circuits (grouping 10 routes) have come into effect. Circuit 1 (Panoramic Route) allows you to tour the upper part of Machu Picchu and get the classic photo from the sector of the Guardian’s House. Circuit 2 (Classic Circuit) also allows you to get the classic photo of Machu Picchu from the upper parts as well as access to the citadel itself with famous Inca sites such as the Temple of the Sun, the Main Temple, the Sacred Rock and more. Circuit 3 (Royalty Circuit) allows you to tour the nuclear area in the lower part of Machu Picchu, which includes Inca constructions such as the House of the Inka, the Temple of the Sun, the building of the Three Gates, the Temple of the Condor. Each circuits is further divided into different sub-routes:

Circuit 1 (Panoramic Circuit), Machu Picchu Mountain Route: this circuit also offers the opportunity to take the classic postcard photo from the viewpoint of the Guardian’s House, with panoramic views of the main Inca structures. In addition to this tour, it allows access to the Machu Picchu mountain, located at 3,082 m (10,111 ft) above sea level. This circuit is restricted to visitors over 18 years old and the maximum duration of the tour in Machu Picchu is 1 hour.
Circuit 1 (Panoramic Circuit), Upper Terrace Route: this basic ticket allows you to get the classic postcard photo of Machu Picchu from the viewpoint of the Guardian’s House. It offers an excellent view of the archaeological complex, including the Temple of the Sun, the Sacred Plaza, the Temple of the Three Windows, the Intihuatana and more, although it does not allow you to tour these constructions.
Circuit 1 (Panoramic Circuit), Inti Punku Route: similar to the previous ones, this circuit allows you to capture the classic photo from the viewpoint of the House of the Guardian, accessible after a 15 to 30 minute walk up stone steps. It also allows access to Inti Punku (Sun Gate), the original entrance to Machu Picchu during the Inca period, located at 2,745 m (9,005 ft) above sea level. The complete tour to Inti Punku is open to visitors of all ages. This circuit is closed in low season.
Circuit 1 (Panoramic Circuit), Inca Bridge Route: This circuit is similar to the upper terrace route but also allows you access to the fascinating Inca Bridge, an ancient engineering marvel perched on a steep cliffside, as well as to lesser-known parts of the site. Reaching the Inca Bridge involves a scenic 30-minute walk from a control booth inside Machu Picchu, close o the Guardian House sector (follow the signs). Visitors must register at the booth before embarking on the walk.
Circuit 2 (Classic Circuit), Designed Classic Route: This route also allows you to get the iconic photo of Machu Picchu, but from a platform below the Guardian’s House, known as ‘Circuit 2’. After capturing the best photos, the route continues through the urban and religious sector of Machu Picchu, offering the opportunity to explore places such as the Temple of the Sun, the Main Temple, the Temple of the Three Windows, the Sacred Rock, the Temple of the Condor (or the Water Mirrors), the Water Fountains and the agricultural sector. This circuit is considered the most complete and recommended inside Machu Picchu.
Circuit 2 (Classic Circuit), Lower Terrace Route: This sub-circuit offers a slightly shorter route but also allows you to get the classic photo of Machu Picchu from a lower terrace. After taking the best photos, the tour continues through the urban and religious sector, where visitors can explore the main Inca temples and enclosures, such as the Temple of the Sun, the Main Temple, the Temple of the Three Windows, the Sacred Rock, the Temple of the Condor (or the Water Mirrors), the Water Fountains and the agricultural sector.
Circuit 3 (Royal Circuit), Waynapicchu Mountain Route: This circuit allows you to visit the buildings of the Inca royalty in the lower part of Machu Picchu, with a view from the agricultural sector similar to the classic postcard view of the Guardian’s House sector. In addition, visitors can tour the religious sector of Machu Picchu and explore temples such as the Temple of the Sun and the House of the Inca. Additionally, visitors can hike to the top of Waynapicchu mountain (this option is only available for people over 18 years old).
Circuit 3 (Royal Circuit), Designed Route: This tour focuses on the royal buildings located in the lower part of the Inca city. It starts with a breathtaking view of Machu Picchu from the agricultural sector. After taking the best photos, the tour continues to the religious sector, where visitors can explore important Inca temples and enclosures such as the Temple of the Sun, the House of the Inca, the Sacred Rock and the Temple of the Condor. This route does not include additional treks into the mountains of Machu Picchu.
Circuit 3 (Royal Circuit), Great Cavern Route: this route includes a visit to the Inca constructions in the lower part of Machu Picchu, with views from the agricultural sector. It also allows you to explore the Great Cavern or Temple of the Moon, located in the Huayna Picchu mountain. The hike to the Great Cavern is only available for people over 18 years old and is only offered in high season.
Circuit 3 (Royal Circuit), Huchuy Picchu Route: this circuit includes a visit to the constructions in the lower part of Machu Picchu and offers a view from the agricultural sector. It also allows a hike to the top of Huchuy Picchu mountain, which takes about 1 hour. The summit of Huchuy Picchu is at 2,497 m (8,192 ft) and the hike is only allowed for people over 18 years old. The route is only open in high season.

If you are visiting Machu Picchu for the first time, the best option is definitely to buy the Circuit 2, Designed Classic Route. This tour is considered the most complete because it includes a visit to the main temples and allows you to get the classic photo spot. If you have already visited Machu Picchu before, you can purchase a ticket with optional routes to Intipunku, the Inca Bridge, Huchuy Picchu Mountain, Machu Picchu Mountain, or the Great Cavern.

HOW MUCH TIME TO SPEND AT MACHU PICCHU?

According to the circuit and route you choose, the time of visit in Machu Picchu will vary, here are some approximate time of visit and the maximum time of stay mentioned by the Ministry of Culture of Peru per circuit, these are referential and may vary.

Circuit 1 or Panoramic:
- Route 1-A: Machupicchu Mountain Route. Its visit usually takes 5 hours and its maximum time of permanence is 7 hours.
- Route 1-B: Upper Terrace Route. Its visit usually takes 1 hour and 30 minutes and its maximum time of permanence is 2 hours and 30 minutes.
- Route 1-C: Route Inti Punku or Sun Gate (High season). Its visit usually takes 3 hours and 30 minutes and its maximum time of permanence is 4 hours.
- Route 1-D: Inka Bridge Route (High season). Its visit usually takes 2 hours and its maximum time of permanence is 3 hours.
Circuit 2 or Classic Circuit:
- Route 2-A: Designed route. Its visit usually takes 2 hours and its maximum time of permanence is 3 hours.
- Route 2-B: Lower terrace route. Its visit usually takes 2 hours and its maximum time of permanence is 2 hours and 30 minutes.
Circuit 3 or Royalty Circuit:
- Route 3-A: Waynapicchu Mountain Route. Its visit usually takes 3 hours and 30 minutes and its maximum time of permanence is 6 hours.
- Route 3-B: Designed route. Its visit usually takes 2 hours and its maximum time of permanence is 2 hours and 30 minutes.
- Route 3-C: Great Cavern Route (High season). Its visit usually takes 3 hours and 30 minutes and its maximum time of permanence is 7 hours.
- Route 3-D: Huchuypicchu Route (High season). Its visit usually takes 2 hours and 30 minutes and its maximum time of permanence is 3 hours

WHAT TEMPLES TO VISIT?

The approximately 200 structures making up this outstanding religious, ceremonial, astronomical and agricultural centre are set on a steep ridge, crisscrossed by stone terraces. Following a rigorous plan the city is divided into a lower and upper part, separating the farming from residential areas, with a large square between the two. The circuit and route you choose will determine which temples you can visit in Machui Picchu. For example, circuit 2 includes the Inca sites such as the Temple of the Sun, the Main Temple, the Sacred Rock and more, while Circuit 3 includes the Inca constructions such as the House of the Inka, the Temple of the Sun, the building of the Three Gates, and the Temple of the Condor. Note that Circuit 1 does not include a visit inside the citadel itself.

Machu Pichu’s three primary structures are the Temple of the Sun, the Temple of the Three Windows, and the Intihuatana Stone.

The Temple of the Sun in Machu Picchu served as a ceremonial and astronomical observatory for the Inca civilization. Its primary function was likely religious, as it was dedicated to the Inca sun god, Inti. Only priests and other high ranking Incas were likely only permitted access into the Temple of the Sun, one of the most sacred temples in all of Machu Picchu. Adapted to the natural environment, the unique semi-circular construction of the temple is built over an enormous granite rock and there’s a tower with a trapezoidal window.
Located west of the main square, the Temple of the Three Windows is known for its huge walls and three trapezoidal-shaped windows through which the sun’s rays would pass illuminating the “Sacred Plaza” beyond.
The Intihuatana Stone is located at the top of a natural pyramidal summit, whose slopes have been converted into terraces or andenes. The monolithic structure – carved out of the gray granite stone of the mountain top – is formed into an upright stone column whose four sides indicate the four cardinal points: North, South, East, and West. In addition, it features a granite block resembling a bench or altar, where the priest would likely have performed some type of ritual.

WHAT HOTEL TO STAY AT?

The closest hotel to Machu Picchu is Belmond Sanctuary Lodge, which is located right next to the site. Its location means that it’s convenient to visit Machu Picchu either at sunrise of late afternoon (the best times for a visit). However, the hotel is rather overpriced and is far away from the dining and shopping of Aguas Calientes — either a strenuous 90-minute climb down the mountain or a 30-minute bus ride.

Aguya calientes, the village closest to Machu Picchu, features two luxury hotels: Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo, located near the train station, and design-forward Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel, a boutique property near the foot of Machu Picchu Mountain. But there are dozens of mid-range options, too, plus super-affordable hostels for backpackers like Nativus Hostel, which also has private rooms.

Most hotels in Peru’s Sacred Valley also offer day trips to Machu Picchu. However, keep in mind that a day trip to Machu Picchu from a Sacred Valley Hotel takes a lot of travel time. Between the car ride from the hotel to Ollantaytambo train station, the train ride to Aguas Calientes and the bus ride to the legendary citadel at the end, it’s at least 4 hours each way (and that excludes waiting lines for the busses). If you instead stay in Agua Calientes (or if you really want to splurge, at the Belmond property at the entrance to Machu Picchu), you could visit Machu Picchu early morning (before all the crowds arrive by train) or late afternoon, and break up the travel.