Approximately 80 percent of Greenland is covered by a vast ice sheet. The remaining 20 percent of this ironically named island is a coastal corridor that is mostly ice-free during the summer months. It is here, among the sparsely populated bays, inlets, and fjords, that the Arctic Circle Trail (ACT) can be found, a legendary hiking route that traverses the most extensive strip of terra firma in western Greenland.
The ACT stretches 165 km (103 mi) between the towns of Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut. During its course, the trail passes through a starkly beautiful landscape of sweeping tundra, shimmering lakes, rocky mountains, and broad glacial valleys. I hiked the ACT (plus the 35 km/21.7 mi “Ice Sheet” extension) over six days in the late summer of 2022. It was part of a memorable two-month backpacking/book research trip in the Nordic region, which included stints in the Faroe Islands, Lapland, and southern Norway.
Pre-ACT ramble on the Greenland Ice Sheet.
At a Glance
Distance: 200 km (124 mi) – Including the 35 km/21.7 mi “Icecap” Extension (See Prologue)
Average Duration: 10 days
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Start: Kangerlussuaq or Point 660 (i.e., The edge of the Greenland Ice Sheet).
Finish: Sisimiut
Total Elevation Gain & Loss: 2,349 m (7,707 ft)
Arctic Circle Trail Overview Map (Cicerone Press Guidebook (see Planning Information)
Highlights
- Pre-trek visit to the Greenland Ice Sheet.
- A myriad of lakes and tarns along the length of the trail.
- Seeing the Aurora Borealis (late August/early September)
- Spotting reindeer, muskoxen, arctic foxes, and arctic hares.
- Trailside Blueberries and Crowberries with breakfast and snacks
- Silence: I didn’t meet too many other hikers during my journey. Auditorily speaking, walking solo through the Arctic tundra sometimes reminds me of remote desert areas – often, it’s just you and the wind.
Getting There & Away:
- Kangerlussuaq Airport is the international hub for Air Greenland, and hikers can fly there directly from Reykjavik or Copenhagen. From the terminus in Sisimiut, there are daily non-stop flights back to Kangerlussuaq. Alternatively, from Sisimiut, you can catch the Sarfaq Ittuk Passenger Ferry southbound to Nuuk (Greenland’s capital) or north to Ilulissat, famed for its namesake icefjord.
Baggage Claim at Kangerlussuaq Airport – may be the shortest (and definitely the least circuitous) conveyor belt I’ve seen at an international airport.
The main supermarket and the road junction of Kangerlussuaq. Go left for the ACT and right to the “Icecab.”
Season
- The snowmelt typically begins in early June, a precursor of high river crossings, boggy trails, and the beginning of bug season. The mosquitos’ nuisance level increases from mid-June through July, not relenting until the first frosts arrive in mid-August. If you’re hiking during this period, a head net can be a sanity-saver.
- By mid-September, the days have become shorter, the nights significantly colder, and early-season snowfalls are an increasing possibility. That said, for experienced hikers, this can be an excellent time to walk the trail, with the rewards coming in the form of more solitude and the chance to experience the Aurora Borealis.
Late summer sunset on the ACT
Six hours later…………..Aurora Borealis from the same campsite.
Planning Information
- Guidebook: Trekking in Greenland: The Arctic Circle Trail (Cicerone Press) has a detailed summary of the trail, including trekking notes, basic maps, side trip suggestions, distance and time estimates, and logistical information. The book is available in Kindle or paperback.
- Online Resources: The go-to resource is the Arctic Circle Trail’s official website. Information includes GPX Tracks and up-to-date beta on trail conditions. The site also has loads of useful info on getting there and away, accommodation, safety, flora and fauna, and pre-and post-hike travel suggestions. For detailed trip reports along with some great images, check out Lisa Germany’s website and Expert Vagabond.
- Cell/Mobile Phone Coverage: As of 2024, there is no coverage between the trailhead towns of Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut.
- Permits: As of this writing (July 2024), no permits are required to hike the Arctic Circle Trail.
- What did I use for the ACT?: 1. Kindle Version of Trekking in Greenland; 2. GPX Track of the trail on my GaiaGPS app, and; 3. 1:100,000 maps purchased at the gift store opposite the airport in Kangerlussuaq.
Resupply & Water:
- Food: Hikers need to be self-sufficient on the ACT, as there is nowhere to purchase food or gear between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut. Though supplies can be bought at either of the trailhead towns, prices will be significantly higher than in continental Europe. It is therefore recommended that you bring all you need, except for gas or liquid fuel for your camping stove, which can be purchased upon arrival in Kangerlussuaq (at the supermarket just across from the airport) or at Sisimiut.
- Water: Plentiful throughout the hike. You shouldn’t have to carry more than 1-1.5 liters at a time. It is generally considered safe to drink directly from streams and lakes without treatment on the ACT.
Trail Notes:
- Prologue: Before beginning the Arctic Circle Trail, most hikers make a side trip to Point 660, located on the edge of the incredible Greenland Ice Sheet. Situated 35 km (21.7 mi) east of Kangerlussuaq, the local landmark is typically visited as part of a half-day excursion with an organized tour company. For those that would like a little more time to explore, arrange to be left at the ice sheet and then walk back along the dirt road to Kangerlussuaq. During the return journey, you can camp near the majestic Russell Glacier, located 11 km (6.8 mi) from Point 660.
Once the shuttle bus has left for the return journey to Kangerlussuaq, you may well have the Ice Sheet all to yourself.
The way back to Kangerlussuaq from the Ice Sheet is dotted with glacial lakes and streams.
Russell Glacier and yours truly.
Walking towards the Arctic sunset.
In 2000, the German company Volkswagen built the dirt road between Kangerlussuaq and the Ice Sheet to test its cars in extreme conditions.
Sandflugtdalen at sunrise
The remains of a 1968 plane crash (the pilot ejected safely).
- Trail Markings: The ACT is well marked by regularly spaced cairns, many of which are painted with a red half-circle (in recognition of the Greenland flag) and adorned with reindeer antlers (a nod to the Arctic’s most beloved four-legged residents). During its course, you’ll periodically ascend and descend rocky hilltops, which offer far-ranging views over the arctic terrain. In addition to the vistas, these hilltops often catch more of a breeze than the often boggy lowland areas, making them perfect for an extended break over breakfast or lunch during the bug season.
- “The Land of One Hundred Lakes”: The ACT passes through an area locally known as the “land of one hundred lakes.” I’m not sure about the exact number, but I can attest that during the hike, you’re never too far from water. The largest lake on the ACT is Amitsorsuaq (23 km/14 mi long). The trail hugs Amitsorsuaq’s southern shoreline for its entire length. For those wishing to rest their legs or perhaps soak in the surroundings from a different perspective, it may be possible to temporarily exchange your hiking footwear for a canoe. If interested in taking the aquatic option, once you reach the lake’s easternmost point at Katiffik Hut, begin to keep an eye out for one of the handful of communal canoes along the shoreline (Tip: At the time of writing, Amitsorsuaq’s canoes are in need of some TLC. Just in case you get a leaky one, be sure to line your backpack with a large trash compactor bag in order to keep everything dry during the paddle).
- Flora & Fauna: During the ACT, hikers may spot an array of wildlife, such as reindeer and muskoxen, along with smaller, more timid creatures such as the Arctic hare and Arctic fox. On the flora front, sprinkled among the tundra, are blueberries, crowberries, and bearberries, all of which are edible and make for a tasty compliment to your cereal or trail mix.
Muskoxen – One of Greenland’s most iconic animals, Muskoxen stand approximately 1.5 m (5 ft) at the shoulder and tip the scales at up to 400 kg (900 lbs). Despite their appearance, Muskoxen are more closely related to sheep and goats than they are to cows and bison.
Grazing Reindeer, Hidden Arctic Fox
Abundant crowberries can be found along the length of the trail.
- Southern Route Alternate: In recent years, an ATV track between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut has been built. There are a few areas where it overlaps with the ACT hiking trail. In 2022, I saw no ATV activity, though this will change going forward. To preserve the trail’s wilderness character, a Southern ACT Alternate route has been developed (GPX info). The Southern Alternate is slightly longer, more remote, not as well cairned, and has no established footpath. I was happy taking the original route during my 2022 hike, though if I were to tackle the ACT again, I’d go with the Southern Alternate. Regarding its current status, the folks behind the trail’s development had this to say on the ACT Facebook Page (May 15, 2023):
“The Southern Route has no tread to follow and very limited markings. In 2023 and 2024, the focus is on marking the Southern Route well enough that it becomes a viable alternative to the main route in 2025. If you don’t have a lot of experience with backcountry navigation and have never walked off-trail before, we do not recommend the Southern Route at this stage.”
Sleeping
- Wild camping or basic backcountry huts.
- The huts along the Arctic Circle Trail (ACT) are free and operate on a first-come-first-served basis. They are unstaffed, vary in size and comfort, and sleep between 6 and 22 people. Take some of these occupancy estimates with a sizeable grain of Arctic sea salt.
- There are ten huts in total on the ACT. From east to west, they are as follows: Hundesø, Katiffik, Canoe Center, Ikkattooq, Eqalugaarniarfik, Nerumaq, Innajuattoq I, Innajuattoq II (aka “The Lake House”), Kangerluarsuk Tulleq Syd, and Kangerluarsuk Tulleq Nord.
- Though the huts can be a sanctuary during inclement weather, most hikers carry their own shelters and wild camp along the trail due to their limited sleeping capacity. From all reports, they can be jam-packed during the peak season of July and August.
- My Experience?: I wild camped with the exception of an unplanned night at the palatial Canoe Center Hut (sleeps more than 20). The combination of rainy weather and a dormitory all to myself, made it a no-brainer. As an unexpected bonus, there was plenty of room to dry out my gear, and thanks to some newly installed solar panels, it was even possible to charge electronics.
The scenically located Innajuattoq Hut (aka “The Lake House”).
Final Tips for the ACT
1. Hike the Icecap Extension – Yes, it adds an extra 35 km/21.7 mi, but this was one of my favourite parts of the trip. Having the opportunity to soak in the Icecap on my lonesome made an extraordinary place even more magical. The return walk to Kangerlussuaq featured reindeer, incredible lakes and waterfalls, the majestic Russell Glacier, Sandflugtdalen at sunrise, and a side trip up Sugarloaf Mountain. Bonus Tip: Take just enough food for this section, and then pick up the rest of your supplies when passing through Kangerlussuaq. Speaking of which……….
2. Gear Storage & Postage: If you plan to return to Kangerlussuaq after the ACT, all of the accommodation options in Kangerlussuaq offer free luggage storage to guests. Alternatively, you can rent one of the storage lockers inside the airport. For those who will travel onwards after Sisimiut, you can post your non-hiking gear ahead from the Tele-Post office in Kangerlussuaq (closed on the weekend).
3. Bugs & Mud: As mentioned above, most folks tackle the ACT from late June to late August. If you’re hiking during this period (at least up until mid-August), expect to encounter relentless hordes of mosquitos and a lot of mud. For some folks, these Arctic staples represent the most challenging aspect of their experience. A few tips to help mitigate their impact: 1. Bring a head net and have it handy at all times (bug repellant can also be useful); 2. Take your breaks on breezy high points; 3. Wear lightweight gaiters, which can help stop mud from getting in the top of your shoes; 4. Opt for breathable, quick-drying, non-Goretex trail running shoes over heavy leather boots; 4. Air your feet out during the day over lunch or extended snack breaks, and; 5. At day’s end, give your feet a thorough cleaning and let them air out before putting on your socks and getting into your sleeping bag (Note: If you plan on spending a lot of time in the huts, bring along a pair of lightweight flip-flops).
4. Rest & Regenerate: If you’re sore of foot, weary of limb, and the bugs and mud are driving you a little bit crazy, consider taking a rest day at the spacious Canoe Center Hut. Located around 60 km (37 mi) from Kangerlussuaq (or 95 km/59 mi from the Ice Sheet), it makes for a practical location to rest and recharge (both internally and electronically), as well as dry out all your gear. Just for something different, you could even take a canoe for a spin or go for a swim in the bracing waters of Lake Amitsorsuaq.
Shelter and Watercraft at the Canoe Center
5. Outside Contact: Given the trail’s remoteness and lack of phone signal, it’s a good idea to bring along a Satellite Messenger in case of an emergency (e.g. Garmin inReach Mini 2). I picked one of these up four years ago, and continue to be amazed at its gossamer weight (100 g/3.5 oz) and long-lasting battery life (i.e., Typically around a month between charges. Note, I don’t use the tracking feature and tend to limit messages mostly to the “In Camp” note at day’s end).
6. Side Trip to Nasaasaaq Summit: An ideal way for westbounders to finish their journey is with a trip to the summit of Nasaasaaq. Measuring 784 m (2,572 ft), this prominent rocky mountain directly overlooks the town of Sisimiut and affords a wide-ranging panorama over the neighboring islands and out into the open sea. I was planning to head up Nasaasaaq on the final morning of the ACT, but Mother Nature had other ideas in the form of a heavy storm. If you have better luck with the meteorological gods, the views look amazing.
The calm before the storm – final campsite on the ACT (located close to the beginning of the summit trail to Nasaasaaq).
7. Preparation: Most hikers take between 8 and 10 days to complete the ACT (not counting the Ice Sheet extension). That’s a lot of food to carry on a trail with no resupply options. Couple that with an Arctic-appropriate kit, and it’s not surprising to see some people beginning the ACT with loads that would make a sherpa wince. Therefore, it behooves you to be in decent backpacking shape from the outset and be deliberate with your gear choices (i.e., Keep things simple without going overboard and focus on practicality and necessity over superfluous luxuries).
Being in good nick and paring down your kit isn’t a backpacking panacea. However, the potential benefits are multifold. It’s better for your body (especially for those of us who are chronologically challenged), as it lessens the likelihood of stress/repetition-related injuries such as knee, foot, back, and Achilles ailments. It’s also better for your mind, which, without the distraction of an excessively heavy load or an underdone preparation, is free to focus more on the beauty and wonder of your surroundings.
Where necessity and wonder meet on the ACT – could this be Greenland’s most scenic privy?
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