A Classic Hike in the Faroe Islands

Bookended by two of the Faroe Islands’ most enchanting villages, the trail between Saskun and Tjørnuvík is one of the archipelago’s classic walks. Located on Streymoy Island, the route traverses a scenic pass and showcases an unforgettable collection of cascades, lagoons, sea stacks, and charming turf-roofed cottages. It’s a hike that epitomizes the “land that time forgot” feeling synonymous with traveling in the Faroes.

The village of Tjørnuvík. 

At a Glance

Distance:  14.5 km (9 mi) (Out-and-back)

Average Duration:  6-8 hrs

Difficulty Level:  Moderate

Total Elevation Gain: 1,204 m (3,950 ft)

Start/Finish: Saskun – Tjørnuvík / Streymoy Island

Looking down toward the ancient hamlet of Saskun (Population: 11) and the Pollurin tidal lagoon (aka Saskun Lagoon).

Planning Information:

• Getting There & Away: Logistically speaking, the easiest option is to leave your vehicle at one of the trailheads and do the hike as an out-and-back excursion. Things are a little more complicated if you don’t have your own transport or only want to hike one way. In that case, your options are as follows: 1. A pre-arranged dropoff and pick-up with a tour company; 2. Hitchhike from your finishing point back to your car, and; 3. If you don’t have a car and don’t want to pay for a tour, you could utilize public transport to access Tjørnuvík, but you’ll still need to hitch to or from Saskun, which is not serviced by public transport. 
  

• Getting Around: During my time in the Faroe Islands, I used a combination of buses, ferries, and hitching. I mostly utilized the excellent (and very affordable) bus system, which got me to most of the places I wanted to go. For an overview of the archipelago’s public transport options, see the Visit Faroe Islands website. (Note: I picked up a Faroe Islands Travel Card upon arrival at Vagar Airport)

• Permits & Fees: No, on both counts.

• Online Information: For anything and everything related to traveling in the Faroes, see the excellent Visit Faroe Islands website. It has loads of information on transport and accommodation options, cultural attractions, and hiking trails (including a free downloadable 56-page guide to hikes on the archipelago). Who am I kidding? If I were you, I’d stop reading this article and go straight there.

• Mid-hike Sustenance: During the summer months, you may be able to purchase coffee and some delicious waffles in Tjørnuvík. Located in the village center and run by long-time resident Hans Esbern Heinesen, look for the “pop-up” restaurant with picnic tables.

Waffle Central in Tjørnuvík.

Trail Notes:

Overview: From a topographical perspective, don’t expect much in the way of flat terrain; basically, you ascend from one coastal village to a mountain pass and then descend to the other coastal village (and then turn around and do it again). The trail is well marked, though I imagine it could be tricky to follow in driving rain and thick fog. Irrespective of how good the conditions may be when you set out, this is one excursion you should never undertake without sufficient insulation layers, rain gear, navigational tools, and a good supply of stoicism in the face of famously changeable weather. 

Multi-tiered waterfall overlooking Saskun.

Description (Saskun > Tjornuvik): During the initial climb out of Saskun, the way is denoted with red post markers. As you gain elevation, these soon give way to regularly spaced cairns. Climbing steadily, the views over Saskun, the lagoon, and its surrounding cliffs and waterfalls are sublime, and after 3.5 km (2.2 mi) of huffing and puffing, the mountain pass (480 m/1,575 ft) is attained. The trail’s high point is situated between Melin (764 m/2,507 ft) and Heyggjurin Mikli (692 m/2,270 ft) peaks. In fine weather, it’s a wonderfully scenic place to enjoy a well-earned rest. In wet, windy, and foggy conditions, chances are you’ll grab a snack, take a quick snapshot or two, and begin the descent sooner rather than later.

Approaching the pass between Saskun and Tjornuvik.

View from the pass, looking back toward Saskun.

Sunrise from the pass the following morning (looking toward Tjørnuvík) (Note: I climbed back to the high point to watch the sun come up).

As you follow the cairn-marked path to the northeast, it’s not long before Tjørnuvík comes into view. Gazing outwards over the village, among the most notable features are the sea stacks of Risin and Kellingin (Risin og Kellingin), which translate to “The Giant and the Witch (see Notes & Musings below). Approximately two hours after leaving the pass, hikers will arrive in the storybook village of Tjørnuvík.

I hiked the trail as an out-and-back excursion beginning and ending in Tjørnuvík. Honestly, it was a bit more like a waddle than a hike for the initial climb, as I over-indulged at the waffle place before setting out.

Steeped in history and rich in natural beauty, human settlement in Tjørnuvík dates back at least to the time of the Vikings in the 10th century and possibly a few hundred years earlier in the form of seafaring Irish monks. However, it’s the hamlet’s jaw-dropping setting that makes it one of the Faroe Islands’ premier attractions. The northernmost village on Streymoy Island, Tjornuvik, is surrounded on three sides by steep-sided mountains and bordered on the other by a dazzling black sand beach and a horseshoe-shaped bay. With a permanent population of 48, Tjornuvik is a veritable metropolis compared to Saskun. 

The beautiful beachside/mountain-ringed village of Tjørnuvík.

Devil’s-Bit Scabious (Succisa pratensis) typically blooms in the Faroes between June and October.

Notes & Musings

• From Harbour to Tidal Lagoon: Saskun’s inlet was once a serviceable natural harbor until a massive storm in the 1600s filled it with sand, transforming it into a seawater lagoon, inaccessible to all but small boats at high tide.

Saskun graveyard and tidal lagoon.

• The Giant and the Witch: Located under Eidiskollur Peak at the tip of Eysturoy Island are the legendary sea stacks of Risin and Kellingin (Risin og Kellingin / Translation: “Giant & the Witch”). According to legend, the rock columns were formed when the giants of Iceland wanted to add the Faroe Islands to their domain. They dispatched the eponymous giant and his witch spouse to achieve the task. However, the objective proved more complicated than the absent-minded couple expected. While immersed in their labors, they forgot that they could only work at night. Sure enough, when the first rays of dawn shone upon them, the giant and the witch transformed into stone, and there they remain to this day. 

Looking out at the “Giant and the Witch” from the black sand beach of Tjørnuvík.

The Giant, the Witch, and Eidiskollur Peak.

• The Old Farmhouse and the Reconstituted Church: Among Saskun’s charming collection of turf-roofed buildings, the most notable are the Dúvugarður farm and the Saksunar Kirkja church. The former dates back to the 1700s and functions as a National Heritage museum that provides visitors an insight into early farm life in the Faroe Islands. The latter was built in Tjørnuvík but in 1858 was disassembled and brought over to Saskun, where it was reconstructed. The materials were transported via the same mountain pass traversed on the featured trail – something to think about while you’re making the journey carrying nothing more than a featherweight daypack!

Dúvugarður Farm in Saskun.

The turf-roofed farmhouses of Saskun.

Saksunar Kirkja church

Note: Saskun to Tjørnuvík is one of 26 featured trails in my latest book with Gestalten Publications, Wanderlust Nordics. Along with two other rambles in the Faroes Islands (see links below), the book features a wide variety of hikes from Iceland, Norway, Greenland, Sweden, and Finland. From family-friendly day hikes to challenging multi-week treks, there’s something to suit everyone from newbies to experienced vets. The book is currently on sale at Amazon……….at around half price! 

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