Hiking in the Heart of Troll Country

The Trollheimen Mountains of central Norway are one of the country’s most diverse mountain ranges. Located in the transition zone between marine and alpine environments, Trollheimen features ancient woodlands, lush river valleys, crystal-clear mountain lakes, and jagged rocky peaks. Complementing the natural wonders is a rich and varied human history. From Stone Age settlements to Iron Age burial sites to characterful turf-roof farmhouses, Trollheimen has a millennia-spanning fusion of environmental, cultural, and historical elements that is all its own.

From a hiking perspective, Trollheimen remains relatively unknown outside the Norwegian outdoor community. An under-the-radar gem whose name translates to “home of the trolls,” an evocative moniker that was coined in the latter part of the 19th century as a way to drum up tourist interest in the region (apparently with middling international results). I visited Trollheimen in the fall of 2022 as part of an extended trip to the Nordic region. During the journey, I did a series of shorter hikes—including the Trollheimen Triangle—which ended up being included in my book Wanderlust Nordics: Exploring Trails in Scandinavia (2023). The article below includes photos, basic trekking notes, along with logistical and GPS information.

The Litlsvartaa River in Svartådalen Valley.

At a Glance:

Distance: 58 km (36 mi)

Duration: 2-3 days

Difficulty Level:  Moderate

Total Elevation Gain: 2,720 m (8,924 ft)

Start/Finish: Gjevilvasshytta mountain hut

Crossing the Minnilla River.

Highlights:

• The gorgeous scenery and autumnal shades of Svartådalen Valley.

• The tarn-dotted Mellomfjellet Plateau.

• Picturesque lakes on either side of Riarskaret Pass.

• Abundant berry foraging opportunities from mid to late summer. Also, on the culinary front, the trail’s historic mountain huts have a long-established reputation for serving excellent local cuisine.

Kamtjonnin Lake

Planning Information:

• Getting There & Away: During summer, a periodic bus service runs between Gjevilvasshytta Hut and the nearby town of Oppdal (23 km/14.3 mi away). If you are coming by private transport, parking is available both at the trailhead and the alternate parking lot, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) away to the northwest.

• Season: Mid-June to late September

• Permits & Fees: No on both counts.

• Guidebook: Ute Koninx’s Hiking in Norway – South: The 10 Best Multi-Day Treks (Cicerone Press) provides a detailed summary of the trail, including trekking notes, basic maps, side trip suggestions, distance and time estimates, and logistical information. The book is available in Kindle or paperback.

• Looking for Something Longer?: Unfortunately, time was not on my side when I visited Trollheimen. With a few extra days up my sleeve, I would have liked to have hiked the Trollheimen SignaTur, a 152 km (94.5 mi) loop around the region. Koninx’s Cicerone Press guidebook has a detailed description of the route.

GaiaGPS Overview Map of the Trollheimen Triangle.

• Water: H2O is abundant throughout the trail. Many hikers choose to filter, though water in Trollheimen is usually considered safe to drink when taken from fast-flowing streams.

• Food: You can either bring your own supplies, buy at the huts, or take a hybrid approach. Note that if you’re hiking out of season, the huts may be closed, and you’ll have to bring all provisions with you (which was the case when I hiked in late September 2022).

Gjevilvasshytta Hut – The starting and finishing point of the Trollheimen Triangle.

• Recommended Pre or Post-Trip Excursion: Vang Burial Site: Located on the outskirts of Oppdal, around 20 minutes drive from the beginning of the Trollheimen Triangle, Gravfeltet Vang (Vang Burial Site) is the largest Iron Age Burial site in Norway and one of the biggest in northern Europe. The site consists of more than 900 burial mounds, most of which are from the Viking Age (750 A.D. – 1050 A.D.), but some of which date back to the early part of the Migration Period (300 A.D. – 700 A.D.). The size of the mounds ranges from 3 m to 17 m (10’ – 56’) in diameter, and excavations have discovered a wide range of items, including swords, jewelry, and other ornamental objects. The unearthed artifacts derive not only from the Nordic region but from places as far afield as the British Isles and southern Europe, evidence of the widespread trade connections that existed dating back to medieval times. The Vang Burial Site is free to visit and consists of a number of interconnected walking trails dotted with regularly spaced information boards (in Norwegian and English). 

Vang Burial Site is located at the crossroads of ancient trade routes, linking together Sunndalen and the Møre coast to the west, Trondheim Fjord to the north, and the Dovrefjell crossing in the south.

Woolly guardians of ancient treasures

Accommodation:

• Wild camping is possible throughout the Trollheimen Triangle. 

• There are three full-service mountain huts (clockwise) along the trail: Gjevilvasshytta, Trollheimshytta, and Jøldalshytta. Hut spaces should be booked well in advance during the peak summer season in July and August.

Campsite near the headwaters of the Gjørdøldalen Valley (Shelter pictured is the Mountain Laurel Designs DuoMid).

Trail Notes:

The Trollheimen Triangle begins and ends at the historic mountain hut of Gjevilvasshytta (est. 1819), located a 30-minute drive from the regional hub of Oppdal. Walking in a counter-clockwise direction, the first stage to Jøldalshytta Hut extends for 21 km (13 mi) and takes an average of five to seven hours to complete. Setting out from Gjevilvasshytta, the path winds its way up through the birch forest of Gjørdøldalen Valley, emerging above treeline after five kilometers (3.1 mi).

Turf-roofed cottage near Gjevilvasshytta Hut.

The trail then crosses a wide saddle, passing beneath Høghøa Peak (1,308 m/4,291 ft) as it descends gradually into the marshy, lake-dotted Høghødalen Valley. At the 11 km (6.8 mi) mark, you’ll reach a footbridge over the Minnilla River before continuing northwards over rolling fells to Skrikhøa Peak (1,061 m/3,481 ft). From here, you’ll be afforded far-reaching views over the Gammelsæterdalen Valley, towards which the trail continues its long and mostly gradual descent to Jøldalshytta Hut, beautifully situated overlooking Jølvatnet Lake.

Crossing the wind/rain-swept saddle close to Høghøa.

Footbridge over the Minnilla River.

Jøldalshytta Hut (photo taken early the following morning, during an all-too-brief window of sunshine).

The second stage to Trollheimshytta Hut offers hikers three alternate routes. If conditions are clear(ish), it’s hard to go past the high traverses over Geithøtta Top (1,316 m/4,318 ft) or Trollhetta (1,616 m/5,302 ft). The third route is a 16 km (9.9 mi) primarily low-level affair that traces the course of the Svartåa River. With heavy rain on the cards, I opted for the latter option. It ended up being a gorgeous valley walk, resplendent with storybook bridges, luxuriant meadows, charming turf-roofed cottages, and peak fall foliage. 

Trollheimshytta Hut is located in the heart of “troll country.” When I arrived, it was closed for the season, but the adjacent day/emergency shelter was open and provided welcome respite from the rain.

Enjoying a long (and dry) lunch in the Trollheimshytta day shelter.

The third and final stage of the trip measures 21 km (13 mi) and is the toughest of the trail’s trio of sections. Leaving Trollheimshytta Hut, you’ll soon cross a footbridge over the Slettåa River before commencing a long and steep climb.

Zig-zagging up through a series of rocky terraces, the trail gains around 700 m (2,297 ft) in elevation over the course of the following three kilometers (1.9 mi). After some huffing and puffing, you’ll top out at Skallen Peak (1,226 m/4,022 ft). In fine weather (I’ve heard), your efforts will be rewarded with stunning vistas over the rivers, lakes, and woodlands of Svartåmoen Nature Reserve. In cold, rainy, windy, and cloudy conditions, I had an ironic chuckle, wolfed down some chocolate, put on an extra layer, and kept moving.

Departing Skallen, continue south over Mellomfjellet, a rocky, tarn-peppered plateau that feels a world away from the forested environs of Trollheimshytta and the Svartådalen Valley. About an hour from Skallen, you’ll arrive at Fossådalsvatnet Lake.

Fossådalsvatnet Lake

Skirt its eastern shore and climb steeply up to Riarskaret Pass (1,307 m/4,288 ft), which is the highest point of the stage. From Riarskaret, descend through a treeless landscape, passing the roundish Kamtjønnin Lake before emerging into the expansive Gjørdøldalen Valley.

Kamtjønnin Lake

Gjørdøldalen Valley

After walking most of the day in cold, wet, and windy conditions, there aren’t many things better than a hot meal, followed by crawling into your dry sleeping bag/quilt and drifting off to the land of Nod accompanied by Mother Nature’s pitter patter soundtrack.

The following morning, I awoke to blue skies. From my campsite, the trail contoured around the edges of Gjørdøldalen’s boggy floor before reaching a footbridge over the river Gravbekke.

Taking a sharp turn to the south, the trail parallels the Gravbekke for much of the following five kilometers (3.1 mi). Along the way, hikers are afforded gorgeous views over the expansive Gjevillvatnet Lake. Eventually, you’ll reach the road at the alternate parking lot, from where it’s a further 1.5 km (0.9 mi) back to the Gjevilvassyttha trailhead. 

Post-hike meal and drying out session.

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