A Classic Hike on Bolivia’s Altiplano

My most recent visit to Bolivia’s Altiplano was in 2017. The raison d’etre of that journey was a 600 km/373 mile traverse of the region, which featured multi-colored lakes, the world’s largest salt flat, and a memorable finish on top of Volcan Licancabur (5,920 m/19,423 ft). Missing from the associated trip report was a beautiful short hike that immediately preceded the traverse – a border-straddling overnighter I called the Five Lakes Loop (Note: Two of the five bodies of water are located on the Chilean side of the border). The article below includes photos, basic trekking notes, a gear list, and logistical and GPS information for the route.

Laguna Inca Ingenio

At a Glance

Distance:  47 km (29 mi)

Average Duration:  10 hours to two days

Difficulty Level:  Moderate. Around 40% of the route is off-trail; however, navigation/route-finding is fairly simple in the wide-open, treeless landscape.

Season: June to September (I hiked in early September)

Total Elevation Gain: 946 m (3,104 ft)

Elevation Range: 4,230 m (13,879 ft) to 5,130 m (16,831 ft)

Start/Finish:  Sajama Village, Bolivia

Moonlight over Sajama Volcano. This was one of my favorite campsites in Bolivia. Not surprisingly, given the altitude of 4,928 m/16,168 ft, it was colder than a loan shark’s heart at around 10°F/-12°C, but the skies were clear, the moon was bright, and the bone-chilling wind had thankfully abated.

Overview Map of the Five Lakes Loop / Sajama, Bolivia.

Highlights

• The eponymous Five Lakes. If I had to pick one, it would be the almost-perfectly round Inca Ingenio. 
• Stoic llamas and speedy vicunas.
• Flamingos on Laguna Huayna Kota
• Soaking in the full moon rising alongside the mighty Nevado Sajama (6,542 m/21,463 ft), Bolivia’s highest peak. 

Llamas wandering the Altiplano, with the snow-capped twin peaks of Volcan Pomerape (6,282 m) and Volcan Parinacota (6,348 m) in the background.

Planning Information:

• Getting There & Away: From the capital of La Paz, you can take a private car or a combo of buses to reach the village of Sajama.  I went with the latter option. The journey took around six hours, with a change of buses (from big to mini) in the town of Oruro.

Downtown Sajama (population 1,700). At an altitude of 4,230 m (13,878 ft), Sajama is one of the highest permanently inhabited villages in the world.

• Permits & Fees: No, on both counts.

• Online Information: For a general overview of Sajama National Park, see VisitSouthAmerica.co and National-Parks.org. On the AllTrails website (Lagunas de Sajama), you can find an abbreviated version of the featured hike (32.7 km/20.3 mi), which includes three of the five lakes (along with photos and trail descriptions). Apart from fewer lakes and less distance, the biggest difference between the AllTrails hike and the Five Lakes Loop is that the former is all on trail, while the latter is cross-country between Laguna Chiar Kkota and Laguna Huayna Kota (around 20 km/12.4 mi).

Nevado Sajama illuminated at sunset.

Accommodation:

• Camping options are plentiful throughout the hike. That said, the terrain is completely exposed, and when it’s blowier than an AYCE bean buffet, you’ll want to be on the lookout for natural windbreaks before bedding down for the night.

• Before and after the hike, I stayed at the Hostal Sajama. I found the cabins to be comfortable, and management let me store extra luggage and supplies while I was trekking.

Trail Notes:

• On the initial stretch out of town, follow 4WD roads until you reach a signed junction at Estancia Junthum. From there, it’s around three kilometers to the geysers.

• Leaving the geothermal area, the trail climbs steadily up to Paso de Casiri (15,941 ft), which straddles the border between Bolivia and Chile. From here, you’ll be treated to views of the first of the five lakes, Laguna Casiri Macho.

The trail to Paso Casiri with the snow-capped Sajama in the background.

Laguna Casiri Macho

• Soon after departing Casiri Macho, skirt along the southeastern side of the smaller Laguna Sora Pata, which is the second of the lakes on the Chilean side of the border.

• From there, climb up to a windswept moonscape, where you’ll be afforded striking views toward Laguna Chiar Khota.

First views of the Laguna Chiar Khota. A planned side trip up to the snow-speckled summit behind the lake – Jisk’a Kunturini (5,475/17,963 ft) – was abandoned due to some weather headed in my direction (Note: The storm ended up being a short one).

Layered up near Laguna Chiar Khota.

• From the western shores of Chiar Kkota, I headed NNE and then NE over a couple of rock-strewn saddles before descending to the jaw-dropping Laguna Inca Ingenio.

On the flora front, one of the highlights of this section was encountering Azorella Compacta (“llareta”), a high-altitude plant endemic to the Andes, which is found at elevations ranging between 3,200 and 5,000 m (16,404 ft) above sea level.

Laguna Inca Ingenio

I enjoyed an early dinner together with some core-warming coca tea on the sandy shores.

• Leaving the frigid waters of Inca Ingenio, I continued NE through a narrow, boulder-strewn valley sandwiched between two sandy-sloped peaks.

• Around three kilometers (2 mi) after leaving the lake, the sun had said its goodbyes and the temps were dropping fast. It was time to look for a place to bed down – preferably with a grandstand view of Sajama National Park’s namesake mountain.

The Mountain Laurel Designs SoloMid (which is still going strong in 2025) and Nevado Sajama.

• The following morning, I awoke semi-early and descended Quebrada Condoriri to reach the shallow, flamingo-frequented lake of Huayna Khota.

Descending Quebrada Condoriri

Laguna Huayna Khota

• The final stretch of the Five Lakes Loop followed a dirt road back to the village of Sajama. Along the way, I stopped for a soak at the soothing hot springs of Doña Ines.

• Upon arrival at the Hostal Sajama, I enjoyed a long lunch before heading down to the village plaza and football ground to take in a late afternoon game. A great ending to a fantastic short hike.

Re-entering Sajama Village at the end of the Five Lakes Loop.

Taking in a late afternoon soccer/football game with rugged-up locals.

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