Gourmet Dining North of the Arctic Circle

Ilulissat is Greenland’s tourism capital. Located on the island’s west coast, 250 km (155 mi) north of the Arctic Circle, its UNESCO World Heritage Listed Icefjord attracts visitors from around the globe. For those seeking more in the way of solitude, a walk up the coast to the isolated settlement of Oqaatsut offers an opportunity to experience a different side of Greenland. A journey back in time to a place where sleepy coves and weather-beaten fishing cottages whisper maritime tales of centuries past.

Seaside campsite near Oqaatsut.

At a Glance

Distance:  41 km (25.5 mi)

Average Duration:  10 hours to two days

Difficulty Level:  Easy

Season: Late June to September

Total Elevation Gain: 946 m (3,104 ft)

Start/Finish:  Hotel Arctic in Ilullisat (Out-and-back)

The settlement of Oqaatsut at sunset.

Highlights

• The colorful, weather-worn cottages that dot the coast between Ilulissat and Oqaatsut
• Disko Bay’s never-ending parade of icebergs of all shapes and sizes
• Eating at H8 restaurant
• Sunset from your seaside campsite

Planning Information:

• Getting There & Away: Most travelers arrive in Ilussiat via an internal flight from Kangerlussuaq, Nuuk, or Sisimiut or an international flight from Reykjavik. For those with plenty of time, Ilulissat can also be reached by regular ferries from the capital Nuuk, along with other smaller villages on Greenland’s west coast.
  

The Ilulissat Icefjord is the sea mouth of the Sermeq Kujalleq Glacier (aka Jakobshavn Glacier), which is one of the only outlets through which the Greenland Ice Sheet reaches the sea. 

With a population of 4600, Ilulissat is Greenland’s third largest town (after Nuuk and Sisimiut).

En route between Kangerlussuaq and Ilulissat on Air Greenland.

• Permits & Fees: No, on both counts.

• Online Information: For general information on Oqaatsut, see the informative Visit Greenland website. For some great images from both the village and the hike, check out mloram.com.

A chilly September morning on the return hike from Oqaatsut to Ilulissat.

Accommodation:

• There’s an abundance of pre and post-hike accommodation options in Ilulissat. If you’re looking for a bargain – good luck. “Budget” accommodation in Ilulissat will set you back at least US$150 during the summer months.

• On the trail itself, great camping is available on the southern outskirts of Oqaatsut village, just before you make the short descent to the graveyard. 

• For those looking for more in the way of luxury, try Hotel Nordlys, which overlooks Rodebay.

Trail Description:

The route to Oqaatsut is well-marked with rock cairns and orange blazes and doubles as a dog-sledding and snowmobile track during the winter months. The trail receives little foot traffic compared to Ilulissat’s famous Icefjord pathways, and most people who visit Oqaatsut do so via organized boat trips.

The journey begins in Ilulissat opposite the Hotel Arctic, the world’s northernmost four-star hotel. The first couple of kilometers are comparatively uninspiring as the trail parallels the local airport, which when I hiked in 2022, was undergoing a significant expansion (now due to be finished in 2026). After 30 or 40 minutes, the airport will be behind you, and things will improve aesthetically and audibly. Indeed, from then until you arrive at Oqaatsut, chances are you won’t see another soul, and the only sounds you hear will be those of Mother Nature.

Staying close to the coast, the trail goes by numerous fishing cottages, whose brightly-colored exteriors make a striking contrast with the drab-gray rocky shoreline and leaden-hued waters. Approximately 7.5 km (4.7 mi) after leaving Ilulissat, you’ll pass through a narrow gorge before emerging at a small picturesque lake – a perfect spot for lunch. Another hour onwards, and you’ll reach a footbridge spanning the outlet stream of the expansive Kangerluarsup Tasia Qalleq Lakes. Campers note that the grassy, semi-sheltered area on the southern side of the watercourse is arguably the best place to overnight between Ilullisat and the outskirts of Oqaatsut.

Kangerluarsup Tasia Qalleq Lakes

From here, the well-marked route ascends gradually and contours northwest around the tiny settlement of Qarajaq Cove. The views over the iceberg-dotted Kangerluarsuk Bay during this elevated stretch are outstanding. After going up and over a narrow, rocky saddle at the 16 km (9.9 mi) point, the trail passes by a small waterfall before reaching the fishing village of Oqaatsut, just over 20 km (12.4 mi) from Ilulissat. 

Qarajaq Cove

Notes & Musings

• The Village of Oqaatsut: Formerly a trading post for Dutch whalers in the 18th century, Oqaatsut has a population of approximately 40 and is only accessible by water or foot during the fleeting summer season. Situated on a small peninsula protruding from the mainland, apart from its ramshackle collection of colorful cottages, Oqaatsut consists of a fish processing plant, a church (which doubles as a schoolhouse), a cemetery, a small convenience store, and last but not least, arguably the finest restaurant north of the Arctic Circle.

Oqaatsut Cemetery

• H8 Restaurant: The H8 restaurant in Oqaatsut offers a gourmet dining experience in the most unlikely of locations. The restaurant’s name derives from the US military’s former place-name/postcode system for Greenland, whereby during WW II, the numbers were painted on prominent rooftops as navigation aids for passing Air Force pilots. The H8 specializes in traditional local cuisine, including muskoxen, reindeer, and seafood offerings such as shrimp, mussels, halibut, seal, and dark whale meat. Prices at the H8 are far from cheap, but considering its singular location and the quality of the food on offer, enjoying one of their three-course meals for lunch or dinner is an experience not to be missed when visiting Oqaatsut.

• Sitting on a Rock of the Bay: After finishing dinner at the H8, I waddled south of the village to pitch my tent. Once everything was set up, I headed over to a flat rock on the shoreline of Disko Bay. As I watched the icebergs floating by and the sky turning fifty shades of crimson, I ate some Freia Melkesjokolade chocolate and smiled one of those big smiles that begins in the heart. I sat there until it started to get colder, and then adjourned to my shelter where I slipped into my quilt, and watched some more. 

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Note: The out-and-back walk to Oqaatsut is one of 26 featured trails in Wanderlust Nordics. My fifth collaboration with Gestalten Publishing, the book features a wide variety of rambles in Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Greenland, and the Faroe Islands. From family-friendly day trips to challenging multi-week treks, there’s something to suit everyone from newbies to experienced vets.